Befuddled Bali

I get it I get it…Bali is supposed to be this magical place filled with peace, beautiful rice paddies, calm, Zen, Hindu temples, and finding oneself. And it did include all of these components, BUT, it just was not for me…let’s explore…

My flight was quite delayed from Java, but I finally arrive in Bali. I was SO excited. Perhaps my expectations were too high. My AirBnB host picks me up, he is so happy and eager to teach me about Bali. The air is cool and moist, I see temples immediately everywhere. The landscape different from where I was the past two weeks.

Bali is primarily Hindu, whereas the other regions I visited were primarily Muslim. So it was extremely different. Plus, I was on a huge island, lush, and wonderful. The sun began to set, rain trickled on the car, and I arrived at my abode in Ubud, SO beautiful, situated in my host’s home, gardens and koi ponds surrounding my small casita. I walk the streets, which are FILLED with tourists. I had not been around so many white people for the past couple of weeks, so this was a shock to me.

That evening, I rest in my beautiful, mosquito-netted four poster bed, and listen to the frogs chirp, the smell of the frangipani flowers cradling me as I fell asleep.

The morning was so peaceful, I arise and prepare to head to the center of Ubud to embark on a four day yoga adventure at the Yoga Barn. I was in awe as I gazed around the facilities, so peaceful, filled with flowers, incense burning everywhere, lush trees, and smiling people. I enter the studio to practice, and had a great time stretching, chanting, and meditating in such a beautiful place. I then walk to find coffee, have a quick foot massage, and follow the scent of roasting coffee.

I arrive at Seniman Coffee…I was so excited because my body was without coffee for over 24 hours. I sit down outside to watch motorbikes and people walk by. I order a pour over from the Bali region, and enjoy the view, I even witnessed a woman leaving offerings to the Hindu gods at the temple across the street. It was a beautiful day. I even ordered another pour over, feeling true bliss.

I return to the Yoga Barn via moped (like Uber but with bikes - seriously so awesome, each ride was only $1!) for one more yoga class, aerial yoga! I met a lovely girl and we learned how to do various moves with the silks our teacher guided us with. I felt great, slick with sweat and feeling energy through my limbs! I have a quick cacao beverage at the cafe and a raw ball, and went on my way. I headed back to my Airbnb via motorbike, showered (the shower was amazing, stone and outside, I loved it) and walked to find a place for dinner. The night was upon Ubud, and I walked, listening to the crickets, the frogs, and feeling the beginning of rain on my skin.

I was engulfed in a book, and read through my dinner of some Gado Gado (less spicy here, I missed the food in Java and Sumatra)! The next day was planned with adventure, so I went to bed shortly after eating.

The morning, I arose and caught a ride to Sanur beach. I grabbed a quick iced coffee, and found my tour guide amongst serious chaos. It felt as though everyone in Bali was planning to take the same tour I was this day. But somehow, I made it onto a boat heading for Nusa Penida, an island off the eastern coast of Bali. Someone greeted me immediately upon arrival, I am unsure how he knew who I was, but I greeted him with joy.

We head to a shack, where I am given snorkeling gear and placed on another boat. We take off, and immediately, I am soaked with ocean water. But I was happy, it was so beautiful! The rocky cliffs, blue seas, and sun on my skin. We then stop at some truly tumultuous waters, I nearly get seasick (someone on the boat got sick) and we are instructed to ‘hop in.’ What? It felt so dangerous! Luckily, there were some Americans next to me and we bonded over our confusion. A Manta Ray swam past, and everyone swarmed it! This was such a strange moment, all of us chasing this beautiful creature. I refused to get in, but enjoyed the view nonetheless, fighting back my nausea. Finally we departed to another site, and this time I hopped in, wearing my goggles, fins, and snorkel. I saw a vast array of coral and beautiful fish. It was thrilling, but the water was so rough! This was a fun experience, but quite chaotic! We stopped a few more times, I bonded with the people on the boat, then we headed back to the island.

I was greeted by my same guide, instructed to shower and change (somehow) but all my clothes were wet! I figured out somehow, someway to be clean/dry and we made our way via car to lunch. All of the sun and excitement made me not hungry, so I sipped on a pineapple banana mango smoothie. My guide and I spoke in English, about our lives, his children, and Bali. The views were stunning, but it was so busy. People everywhere taking glamor shots. My guide even requested I pose at various points so he could capture me in the same way. I was quite shy and felt my sunburn revealing itself! Ah!

*Kelingking Beach (Pinky Beach), Nusa Penida, Bali*

So much fun, laughing with my guide, snacking on some pisang (bananas) and heading back to the shores to take the boat back. It was seriously a full day! I made it onto a small boat, then a large boat, which headed back to the mainland. We arrived at the coast, but the tide was so strong, we were instructed to hop out, a wave hit us, and I was soaked once more! Ah! I struggled to find a car to take me back to Ubud, but I managed, and he even stopped so I could buy Aloe Vera and some snacks (I was starving and really loved the peanuts they sold at the Indomarets).

Finally home, I showered, lathered myself with aloe and inhaled a few bags of nuts and dried bananas. I was exhausted, and so relieved to be in bed with my book. Sleep greeted me with open arms, with the hum of frogs to lullaby me.

The next couple of days were solely in Ubud, drinking coffee, eating healthy food at the Yoga Barn, practicing yoga, walking around, seeing monkeys, riding motorbikes, and eating some local food. The smell of frangipani will forever remind me of my time here.

I then bid Ubud farewell, and head to Canggu. This was about an hour south, and along the coast. I arrived at my Airbnb, it was so beautiful! It almost felt like California here, especially once I started walking around. So many transplants here riding motorbikes, drinking coffee on their computers. I went to Hungry Bird to have a snack and a coffee whilst catching up on some work. I then wanted to walk to the ocean, but I learned that Bali is not really a walkable place. There is no sidewalk, and everyone is on a motorbike.

I reach the ocean in the evening, and gaze out at the waves as a beach club blasts music. It was so strange…such peaceful rice paddies and temples, situated right next to all of this American/Australian development. I walked back to my place, had a snack, and decided to sleep in the next morning and take it slow.

The next couple of days were a confused conglomeration of Bali with reminders of California. The coffee was decent, the people were set in their own ways, and I enjoyed being solo.

I soon ventured to Uluwatu for one final hurrah on this island. I stayed on the cliffs overlooking the ocean, surrounded by monkeys. It was quite romantic, and I enjoyed the solitude, my amazing hut with a shower built into the rocks. I did not explore much, just watched the waves, read, and listened to the monkeys and rain. I did venture out to the Uluwatu Temple, which was amazing, so serene, expansive, and carefully carved into the rugged cliffs of Uluwatu. So much spirit and power here. I drank a coffee at Suka Espresso, an Aussie cafe along the winding roads of this region of the island.

After some reflective evenings in my peaceful abode, it was time to bid Bali farewell, and begin my journey back home. Bali was…exquisite…but…not for me. Too developed, too touristy, and so much culture lost to promote tourism. It hurt my heart to see so much western influence. So many westerners in a place that was once so sacred and pure.

Much to reflect on…

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