Adventuring in Aquiares, Costa Rica

The rich and beautiful country of Costa Rica is known for its biodiverse jungles, exquisite beaches, wildlife, and coffee. Mountains crunch the landscape, as two oceans wave their waters on each side of the country. The climate is perfect for coffee production, the soils enriched with volcanic minerals. 5% of the world’s flora and fauna reside in this small country, which gained independence in 1821. Known as the eco-tourism capital of Central America, it is here where Aquiares Estate grows its exceptional coffee. A place I had the joy to visit and learn more about the complexities of growing coffee in Costa Rica.

*Array of coffee trees intercropped with native vegetation, Aquiares, Costa Rica*

Purchased in 1890 by British farmers in Turrialba, seeking to reap the benefits of the rich lands and profit from coffee, Aquiares was one of the first true coffee farms in Costa Rica. The area was once home to an indigenous community, ruins still being found today ranging from carvings and architectural remnants. The farm itself helped preserve this history, and soon a community was built, creating a harmonious place between people and coffee. Today, it encompasses 924 hectares, and has been owned by a trio of families since 1971, including the Robelo family.

A prominent figure at Aquiares is Diego Robelo, current CEO of Aquiares, who grew up on this farm, guided by his father, Don Alfonso, and learned about its land as a child. He took over from his father after receiving his MBA from Cornell University and became the entrepreneurial master behind the recent innovation of the farm and was my dedicated guide. After being collected from the airport, we were on our way to Aquiares. The air cool, moist, the sun bright and the mountains rising in the distance. I was on alert to see a toucan…

*Diego Robelo overlooking Aquiares, Costa Rica*

When I first arrived at Aquiares, I was in awe of the beautiful, clean, lush town and the vast expanse of coffee trees. I learn that the producers actually own the homes within the community, something Diego’s father helped initiate. Amongst the 2,000 locals, 15% actually work for Aquiares, all owning their homes. As we drive around the village, I notice that all the homes are brightly colored with beautiful yards. Diego says that since the people own their homes, they take pride in how they look. Everyone was so happy, waving hello as the clouds rolled in and rain began to pour.

A coffee roaster from the US was also visiting Aquiares at the same time, and I greeted him hello. Some of his friends joined us as Diego showed us around the town and we cupped some coffees at the mill. In the afternoon rain, I saw my first toucan (Collared aracari) in the distance, Diego also excited for me to see when. We jumped to see the ethereal creature. The evening, we were served a beautiful dinner, drinks, and laughter. It was the perfect start to my time in Costa Rica.

*Aquiares House and Aquiares town, Costa Rica*

The morning, I awoke early, since it was the prime time to see birds before the sun rose. I woke naturally to the sound of all their chatter. I rushed out and sat outside for nearly an hour. My birding app allowed me to catalogue numerous species I have never heard nor seen before. I was in heaven. After some coffee and fruit with the rest of the crew, we drove over to a trail that led us to the most wondrous waterfall. We swam in the icy cold waters, some of the group members swam to the waterfall to submerge in its powerful fury. I remained behind, laughing and feeling pure bliss.

We showered upon our return, and I bid my fellow US friends goodbye as I spent the afternoon typing away, looking out the window at the birds and the mountains, sipping coffee grown right at Aquiares. If there was a heaven, this could be it.

Over the next couple of days, Diego and I spent plenty of time driving around the farm, seeing different areas growing different varietals. Seriously this place was like a gene bank for coffee. We searched for toucans, and finally found one (Keel-Billed) as we crouched along a jagged cliff edge. I also saw (heard) another one during a morning walk on my last day (see video below)! They have a well-known clicking call that sounds like a wooden percussion instrument. The Montezuma Oropendola had an especially fantastic call that I shall remember forever.

Seriously the birds here are amazing. In 2003, a bird study revealed that there were only 30 species within the Aquiares territory. After reforestation and adopting more sustainable practices, a new study in 2019 found that the number of bird species was over 140. Therefore, Aquiares excels in life!

There is a new project underway at Aquiares including essential oils. A team of seven women run the project, with fields of herbs that are organically grown and harvested right next to the coffee trees. These herbs are pressed into essential oils, some of which are used for coffee processing. I visited one of these fields, picking the leaves and smelling the herb between my fingers. Oregano, Eucalyptus, and Juanylama have been growing here since 2021 for this project, and it is simply beautiful and truly sustainable.

Not only that, but Diego shows me some of Aquiares’s cacao trees, situated within delicate coffee trees in a special section of the farm. This cacao is used for chocolate to be sold at the Aquiares store along with coffee. There is a roastery in order to roast the very beans growing around the Estate, as well. It is a remarkable enterprise. There is also an extensive quality lab with a team who assesses every single lot that is milled at Aquiares.

*Coffee drying at Aquiares mill, Costa Rica*

The mill, as well, is a remarkable piece of the puzzle. We walk around the well-organized dry mill, so sleek and clean. And the wet mill, although not much coffee was coming in at the time I visited. The carefully constructed greenhouses, the solar dryers, and the experimentation lab were all exquisite and well-planned.

People come from all over the world to visit Aquiares, to participate in the Coffee Tour, riding horses through the trees, learning about coffee, and visiting the beautiful Aquiares waterfall. Toucans soar above, rains come and go, plenty of happiness and adventure. There are tours occurring here daily, and it is not uncommon to see a foreigner with their large backpack wandering around the town, embracing the amazingness of Aquiares.

*Coffee seedlings awaiting planting, Aquiares, Costa Rica*

It is astonishing how many projects are occurring at Aquiares. We visited the extensive varietal research garden – a nursery filled with numerous varietals ranging from SLs, Ethiopian heirlooms, Starmaya, Mariana, Esperanza, Obata, and so many others, it was exceptional. I am eager to see the future of Aquiares and coffee in Costa Rica.

*Baby coffee in nursery, Aquiares, Costa Rica*

There is an exceptional staff here, as well. Diego and his team are so close and even had a party for a staff member’s retirement. We sat around, chatting and eating, and sat by the fire laughing and speaking Spanish. It was a beautiful moment, one that is rare and unique in my books. These people love Aquiares, and I get it. I wish I lived and worked here!

Diego and his team are constantly searching for ways to improve or be more innovative. It was a wonderful experience spending some time at Aquiares. It felt serene, peaceful, and I loved hearing the birds in the trees, sipping some seriously amazing Aquiares coffee served in a vandola. I am already eager to return.

Adventuring in Aquiares, Costa Rica

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