Galloping through Guatemala
Nestled safely in the beautiful coffee belt, hugged between Mexico, El Salvador and Honduras sits Guatemala - in my opinion, a lesser known coffee producing country.
Prior to my visit to Guatemala, I did not have much of a high regard for the coffees from here. Normally quite citrusy, one-dimensional, and nutty. So I did not have any expectations for what I was going to taste or even who I would meet. Little did I know…there was truly a hidden treasure in this blocky-shaped country.
Waves of baby blue and white greeted me as Guatemalan flags perched on the flagpoles of the Guatemala City airport. Immediately, I realized my lack of Spanish knowledge, and excitement grew in me for the journey ahead that would require speaking in a new language, eating new food, and seeing COFFEE.
After clearing customs and revealing my negative virus test, I was set free into the unknown. My first evening was simple and confusing, as an unusual Airbnb in a strange location brought me to a quiet and dark road, where peeking into kitchens opened me to the magical world of tortillas and their preparation in this interesting place. Slapping of tortilla dough between the delicate hands of women dressed in the most intricate skirts and blouses truly enticed me as I gorged on tortillas and guava juice that evening. This trip will feature the aforementioned saucers of pure maize bliss.
I must say that I was not expecting to discover any specialty coffee shops in this bustling capital city. But I was proven wrong, as the Fourth Wave of Coffee truly rushed ashore here (future article on the waves of coffee). Locals were mastering the roasting and brewing of locally grown coffee. I was treated to a number of different varietals from different areas of Guatemala brewed in a multitude of ways. I was spoiled thanks to a friend at a coffee roastery. A future list of these shops will be listed!
I then ventured to Lake Atitlán, a lake filled by the incessant rains of Guatemala’s wet season, situated within a large volcanic crater in the southwestern highlands. Here I learned about indigenous populations, the twenty-something languages, customs, history and the strange place called San Marcos La Laguna. Coffee is produced on the steep slopes of this volcanic area but the towns are filled with tourists looking to connect to nature, the universe, and learn from the Mayan customs. Do some research - such an interesting place! I would recommend jumping in a lancha and heading to Panajachel and indulging in a pour over at Cafe Loco. Delicate, beautiful, and roasting on a small S7 roaster by two talented Koreans. The views here are amazing - so peaceful and lovely. The sun delicately tickling my shoulders as I walked along the busy streets filled with locals selling handmade goods, fruit, and tortillas of course.
I eventually journeyed to Antigua, where volcanoes towered over crumbling Spanish Baroque buildings, lined with cobbled roads. This was an interesting city, and yes, of course, I found an amazing coffee shop, Bella Vista, where I sipped a floral and citrusy pour over from the region atop a building overlooking the historic town.
My afternoon brought me through the gates of Finca Santa Clara, greeted by the owner of the farm, Ricardo Zelayas. A beautiful lunch of tomato soup and lemonade filled my stomach before being led by the energetic black lab, Gigi to the processing plant. I met workers who were carefully washing bright red cherries to be set out to dry on patios and within intricately-built greenhouses. This is my first time seeing a coffee greenhouse, of course I was mesmerized and asked too many questions. Ricardo and his family have been growing coffee for nearly a century, so he has truly nailed down the system. And it shows. The organization, dedication, and beauty - wow. I saw where the coffee is hulled, sorted and sent to rest. A magnificent and well-oiled machine run by a knowledgeable and hilarious man.
We hopped into a four-wheeler where we scaled the mountain that was the actual coffee farm. The bumpy roads were filled with swaying coffee trees, ready for harvest, and a collection of pickers working to fill their baskets by the end of the day.
Reaching 1800masl, I gazed out at the misty sky, ducking to allow neighboring vultures to soar overhead, and greeted the massive Volcán de Fuego as he maintained his towering dominance. Ricardo mentions to me that he has brought the Geisha variety to Guatemala (future article) from Malawai and tosses me a freshly picked cherry to taste. Let me tell you…I have tasted a number of coffee cherries, each sweet and earthy and promising; but this cherry. As soon as the skin broke between my teeth, bursts of peach candy spread across my tongue, sugary tartness and curiosity for how this coffee will taste once processed, rested and roasted.
Following the bumpy ride down the massive mountain, we exit the gates and speed down a road filled with carts selling frozen fruit treats and cooked meats (not together, of course). We then reach Finca Carmona and are greeted by a fierce German Shepard who guides us around as we see new plots of coffee trees that were recently planted to replace older varieties. To my surprise, further into the farm, we encounter large tables with newly-born coffee trees. The silly small plants that are topped with a coffee bean before sprouting leaves.
Just behind the cradles of awakening coffee are toddler coffee plants situated in perfect lines - awaiting the day they will be incorporated into the farm. Women carefully water these young plants as the sun sets and the dog leads us out of the farm - one of the volcanoes carefully erupting in the distance.
The sky fades to a dark blue with hues of orange and pink once we reach the house and dust off the adventures of the day. We bid Ricardo farewell as the gates close behind us. My mind hungry for more knowledge, and for food. I only realize that new regulations closed restaurants and grocery stores early in the City so food must wait until tomorrow. A new day and more coffee. Exciting.
