Guatemala Adventure Take Three
Another early morning and a stop at a local coffee shop prepared me for another long journey through Guatemala. Today…we will be venturing to Cobán, a region well-known for coffee production in Guatemala due to its unique microclimates and nutrient-rich soils.
As we traverse through varying landscapes including dry mountainous regions to protected lush forests, we soon arrive at our first destination, Finca Santa Isabel. We are greeted by father-and-son duo, Don Luis and Wicho Valdes. The warm welcome is refreshing after the nearly three hours on the road, and we are first directed to see the processing area, where coffee is being mechanically dried and placed into the well-known jute sacks. As I gaze up above, I hear birds chirping, different native vegetation, and the warm sunshine. Wicho, the son, is eager to show me more as we walk across the road to the wet mill.
Wicho is so knowledgeable about coffee, the supply chain, and is eager to tell me all about Finca Santa Lucia. Upon entering the patio of the wet-mill, I realize it is situated on a hill, to provide elevation for the coffee as it rushes down with water and gravity towards the fermentation area. Signs display rules and regulations for preventing the spread of the pandemic that has swept through all reaches of the world - even this beautiful coffee farm in Central Guatemala. Wicho has lost his second-hand man to the virus, and is taking every precaution to prevent its spread.
As we climb down the endless steps to the well-known white-tiled canal systems and fermentation tanks - the sweet aroma of coffee pulp fills the air. Once the coffee is washed, it is de-pulped, sorted, and sent to the fermentation tanks. Along the way, as the coffee gently floats along the canal systems, floating beans are removed to ensure only high-quality coffee remains.
Once the coffee has fermented for a set period of time, it is then set out to dry on the patios, if the sun is shining. Women are carefully sorting through this pergamino, meaning the coffee in the shell, to remove any defects. Wicho is amazingly organized with each lot of coffee, and ensures to show me each label for every coffee. The coffee may also be dried in greenhouses in the large open crates mentioned earlier at Finca Santa Clara. Wicho is truly experienced, and knows where each lot of coffee is in his greenhouse. The coffee may then finish drying in the gordiolas I visited at the start of my trip, mechanical dryers.
As we climb back up those endless steps, Wicho tells me what impact the virus has had on him and the coffee market. He was able to sell all of his coffee, but at a reduced price. Buyers were buying less and not willing to spend as much. Additionally, he had to resort to selling to local coyotes at a cheap price with high taxes in order to sell everything. He took a hit last year, but is hopeful for the 2021 crop. As am I!
We then trek back across the road and all gather into a truck, where Wicho takes us to the brother farm of Santa Isabel, Finca San Lorenzo. This drive was bumpy and we gained significant elevation.
Once we emerged, I was surrounded by mountains of coffee, that seemed to extend as far as the eye could see. It was magical. So organized and amazing. I felt the sun on my cheeks, the wind in my hair, and felt the future of coffee production in Guatemala. This region specifically was heavily deforested because of agriculture, and Wicho is working to replant native vegetation and more resistant crops to not only improve his yield, but restore the health of the ecosystems in this region. He has even planted macadamia trees as shade cover to help with soil health while also diversifying his income.
Wicho’s kind spirit shone through his work, and the magnificence of his ideas and passion for coffee were both emulated through the landscape at Finca San Lorenzo. I cannot express how beautiful this moment was. And how extraordinary Wicho is. It was refreshing to meet someone like him in the coffee industry.
As we then returned back to Finca Santa Isabel, Wicho was intent on me trying out his hammock and left me to rest for a bit of time before lunch was ready. Tortillas, of course, vegetables, and fresh juice. What a beautiful morning completed by a delicious meal. We then sipped some of the coffee as Wicho told me more about his history, his travels, and his hopes. I will cherish this intimate moment.
I was sad to leave Finca Santa Isabel, but the rest of the day sped by as we drove to another farm in Cobán called Finca Santa Paula, where my Spanish was put to the test. I walked with the farm manager and agronomist as we watched coffee being weighed and paid for. Visited the processing area, and climbed up through the coffee trees. The presence of La Roya was evident, and my heart hurt to see so many naked trees and bright orange spots. This farm needed love, needed the hope and passion utilized by Wicho. Upon leaving, I felt a mix of emotions - but I was hopeful coffee would recover, as Wicho was able to achieve at his farm.
It is a tough time for producers in Guatemala, with the virus, climate change, a volatile market, and the struggle to maintain quality. We as consumers must support them and ensure they have a future.
The drive home was filled with aloe vera juice, traffic, and interesting conversations with my guide. Great day, ready for sleep…
