Mountains of Mixteca

The Mexican adventure continues as I hop into a car to drive into the mountains of Oaxaca to learn more about the coffee here and the resilient producers.

It took almost a century for coffee to reach Oaxaca after the crop arrived in Veracruz. It was 1874, and prices for the widely grown commodity, the cochineal bug used to dye clothes, were low. Therefore, communities learned more about coffee and the land required to grow the beloved crop. Pluma Hidalgo was founded a decade later and is still known as one of the coffee capitals of Oaxaca.

Oaxaca only produces about 10% of the country’s coffee, and production has been teetering. Farms are old fashioned in Oaxaca, using no chemicals or fertilizers, and growing older varietals such as Typica and Bourbon. Yields are extremely low, even for Mexico. Roya ravages the land, the region is dry, and producers lack the knowledge to improve yields and quality.

*Romelia Sάnchez Jiminez, El Porvenir, Mixteca*

I learned so much about the struggles encountered by producers here, I could not believe the lack of support and was eager to see how I could help.

We journeyed to Mixteca, my entourage included Hironori Kondo with Cari Coffee and Neftali Perez Paez, an SMS technician for the region.

As we gain elevation, I am shocked by how vast this desert landscape stretches. The sun beating down on us as we stop for lunch in Tlaxiaco, quesadillas and watermelon juice. We chat about Oaxaca, and Mixteca. In Mixteca, there are many groups, each of which are made up of about 20 producers who have, on average, between 1-1.5 hectares of coffee. The producers will gather their coffee, process it at home, always washed, and then coordinate with a leader of the group to deliver to the Oaxaca dry mill where it is hulled and evaluated. Typically, these producers have yields of about 7-8 bags/hectares. Which is nearly three times the normal yield in Oaxaca.

I also learn that there was once a coffee cooperative in Oaxaca, organized by AMSA called UNECAFE. The cooperative broke up in 2021/22, leaving Neftali and one other technician with nearly 550 producers to manage throughout Oaxaca. They hire temporary workers to assist during the harvest, but it is a difficult job. The cooperative dissolved because it was too expensive to fund, with low yields and high production costs in Oaxaca, it was a mess. Now, SMS are trying to recover what once was. Neftali tries to visit 30% of his producers every 3 months, which is a difficult task, especially since he does not drive!

Another four hours and we finally arrived in Santa María Zacatepec at the Casa Chica hotel. We emerge from the car, the air still warm, reminding me of a sauna. We check in, and the rooms are nice, cool, and dark. I showered and worked a bit before we headed to dinner.

This is a small town, not many restaurants so we venture to a small kiosk that sells a collection of food, none of which is Mexican. I settled for a salad, that comes served in a pizza crust. This is my first pizza salad, and hopefully not my last.

*Guava juice, Santa María Zacatepec, Mixteca*

We chat as we sip guava juice, Neftali telling us the problems with the coffee producers in Oaxaca. The younger children of the producers typically do not want to follow in their father’s footsteps. They either go to the cities to make more money, or to the United States, where, even though conditions are tough, they typically will make more money. The cost of production has been high in Oaxaca, and there has not been much revenue, making coffee farming unappealing to the younger generations. Can you blame them? How can we fix this?

Well, Neftali, as an SMS technician, has already started providing his services. They offer the producers new Marsellesa trees. Varietals that are more resilient to roya, drought, and maintain a better yield. Yet, some of these producers refuse to change, stubborn and set in their ways, and sell these trees to other producers. They believe that their trees are healthy, even with no leaves, when the rains come, they can still grow coffee. Absolutely strange, but I can see the struggle on Neftali’s face. But he is determined.

*Romelia Sάnchez Jiminez’s beehives, El Porvenir, Mixteca*

He also showed me a video of a huge honeycomb, a producer gathering the honey with a large scraping knife. I learned that producers have begun to maintain hives to diversify income. I am excited to learn more, and to taste this magical syrup.

Fireworks had been bursting all day, even in Oaxaca City, but even more so here. I am told that it is Santa Cruz day, an annual holiday in Mexico. Therefore, fireworks are loudly exploding all around us.

The clouds roll in, lightning flashes in the sky, and soon, a serious downpour arrives. We run under an awning, where we feast in our strangely American meals. Laughing at the lighting, the roaring rain, and the fireworks. When the rain subsides, a parade appears, locals dressed in traditional attire, holding candles, dancing, singing, playing music, and more fireworks. Such a magical moment and I felt honored to witness this beautiful holiday.

In the morning we headed to El Porvenir in the mountains. We arrive at the humble home of Abigail, where she cooks us breakfast on her comal. Tortillas, beans, and coffee with her own honey. She tells us that she has her own farm with two lots (Zapote and Patio) together making 3.5 hectares. Neftali tells me a bit about the upcoming meeting with the producers here in the town center. There are 38 producers belonging to the El Porvenir group, 13 of which are women. They have, on average, 3-4 hectares of coffee. La roya hit this community hard, and many producers still grow old varietals such as Typica. These trees have no leaves and generally produce little cherry.

*Neftali Castro, El Porvenir meeting, Mixteca*

We begin to walk to the town center, where we meet 24 of the 38 producers. There are women and men, most are older, some young, all eager to talk to Neftali. He is recording how much parchment producers sold this season, and how many Marsellesa plants they will receive. This is interesting…Starbucks is funding a project whereby each roasted bag of coffee equates to one Marsellesa sapling. Essentially, each producer receives two plants per kilogram of parchment. Somehow, Neftali has calculated this perfectly, and producers state how many plants they would like when he calls their name. It is so organized; I cannot believe it. The saplings will arrive via truck, and the producers will split freight costs, and the plants will be dispersed. Trust is so important in this community. It is better for the producers to sell to Neftali and AMSA because they have this opportunity to renovate their farms for a reasonable price. Only 2% of the plants die during this journey from Veracruz (normally, from private vendors, sometimes 20% of the plants die).

Neftali continues the meeting, talking about the plants and future goals. He keeps track of each of their yields and how many Marsellesa plants they will receive. Oaxaca is extremely dry and la roya spreads easily, so these new crops are vital to the future of these farms. Yet, some are stubborn, and refuse to replant their ancient Typica trees, growing tall with naked limbs.

*Producers tasting coffee, El Porvenir, Mixteca*

Next, we headed to a producer’s home where a table is prepared for Hiro so he can begin his coffee tasting class. He has brought coffee from this region, one from Chiapas, one natural from a large estate, and a mixture of defected coffee. The cups are prepared, and the producers are advised to smell the dry, ground coffee. Hiro explains each step, the importance in quality, and how cupping normally ensues. Water is boiled, and gently poured over each sample. Producers then taste each coffee, blindly, with plastic spoons. It is a great moment, seeing the producers talk about the coffee, discuss which they preferred. They then learn which coffee is theirs and about how natural coffee is prepared. It is not normal to process coffee naturally in Oaxaca, but it could be a beneficial option since it is so dry and natural coffees could mean higher incomes.

*Ruben Jose Hernandez and his farm, El Porvenir, Mixteca*

We clean up and head back to the truck to visit some of the producers’ farms. First, we hop out of the truck to walk around Ruben Jose Hernandez’s farm, El Naranjo. 3 hectares of sandy soil with Marsellesa and Typica, intercropped with shade trees such as Guaje, mango, and Annona. He has had his farm for 30 years, and since 2016, his yields have increased thanks to the renovations with Marsellesa. Rains are late here, and this can harm yields. The Marsellesa plants fare better in the dry weather. He prunes the tops of his trees to promote growth of the lower branches. I learn that his family is all in the US, and he is alone here, relying on the support of the community to help with his farm.

*Romelia Sάnchez Jiminez and her farm, El Porvenir, Mixteca*

Back in the truck and we head back through the town and up the mountain to visit Romelia Sάnchez Jiminez’s farm, 4 hectares split into two lots (El Sauce and El Parade). She is surprisingly 80 years old, but she is energetic, small, and eager to renovate her whole farm. Romelia has been growing coffee here for 60 years with her husband, who has since passed away. She still has Typica plants that are towering high but has constantly been asking Neftali for more Marsellesa plants to help her yields. At one point, she had 8 hectares, but due to some fires and other difficulties, she has reduced to her current farm size. Romelia joined the AMSA cooperative in 2016, and she is a leading force amongst the community members. Her tough personality and excitement for the future are promising for the community. Her children have home, one in Oaxaca city and the other two in the US. She relies on help from the locals but struggles to find proper help with pickers. Due to health reasons, she is unable to visit her farm every day, but tries to visit often.

*Romelia Sάnchez Jiminez producing area at her home, El Porvenir, Mixteca*

We visit her home and see where she dries her coffee. And we hear the humming of her hives and play with her kittens. I love this woman, the heart and soul of coffee in Mexico. Hives are common in Mixteca because of the warm and dry climates. I realize something, that many of the producers are old. It is becoming increasingly difficult to encourage young people to grow coffee, and they end up moving to cities or the US to make more money. It makes sense…growing coffee is hard, and rarely profitable. Input costs are high, and producers do not make enough from their yields.

*El Porvenir producer group with Neftali, Mixteca*

The work SMS, Cari Coffee, and AMSA are doing in Mexico, and in Mixteca specifically, are helping to increase the revenue of these producers, which will in turn bring more youths into the coffee-producing sector. Edgar, one producer at the meeting, was so eager to learn more about quality, processing, and other information from Neftali and Hiro. He is 33, younger than the others but eager for the future. He gave me hope. We then drove to Putla, where we checked into our warm hotel, our rooms at the top of a never-ending staircase. Dinner in the town center, I had a Tlyayuda, basically a Mexican pizza. We wandered back to the car, watched some basketball players shooting hoops, and headed back. Our rooms warm, with only a fan and screen-less windows. I fell asleep somehow…

The morning, once again, was early and we drove to another community called San Isidro Paz y Progreso. Here, we were greeted by Isabel, a lovely young woman with a baby slung across her chest in a beautiful fabric. She guided us to her home, where her mother, Gloria, was situated at her camal (traditional Oaxaca stove). A spread was prepared for us, and the smell was exquisite. She made each of us a tortilla with beans and cheese, the tortillas gentle pinched before she placed them on the hot surface. We had coffee with honey, common for Mixteca, and talked to Isabel about her studies. She was given a scholarship this year by SaborMex to study administration. This would potentially turn into a job with coffee producers, to assist with account management. The two of them manage their own farm of 1.5 hectares, that is separated into two lots. Gloria also cooked some nopal (cactus) and Chayote, a sweet squash grown throughout Mexico. So delicious!

*Isabel and Gloria breakfast, Paz y Progreso, Mixteca*

Our bellies full, we headed to the town center, where a collection of producers gathered for the meeting with Neftali and Hiro. A similar meeting would ensue, and I had the honor of joining. This group is comprised of 28 producers, 7 of which are women. 21 members were present at the meeting, and five new members joined the group this day, 3 women. They were all excited to talk with Neftali and to meet with Hiro. These producers generally have, on average, 2.25 hectares of land for their coffee.

Neftali, with the assistance of the group’s leader, Reynaldo Noel Garcia Lopez, went through each producer, calculated how many Marsellesa trees each would receive, and talked to them a bit about their farms. This community not only spoke Spanish, but also Mixtec, a pre-Columbian language, more guttural than Latin languages. It was exciting to hear them chat in this unique language.

*Paz y Progreso producer group, Mixteca*

I learn that these producers rarely have bank accounts, but AMSA cannot pay in cash. So, with plenty of trust, they transfer the funds to Reynaldo’s account, and he disperses the funds. Neftali and the other SMS technician will then check in to make sure each producer received their funds. So much trust and honesty!

*Hiro preparing cupping, Paz y Progreso, Mixteca*

Hiro then prepared the cupping, where one of the coffees was from Paz y Progreso, a natural from an estate, one from Chiapas, and a blend of inferior coffees. The producers eagerly began to examine the aroma of the dry coffee, Isabel joined with her baby, and they began to discuss. Once they tasted the coffees, it seemed they knew which was theirs. Hiro quizzed them afterwards, and they correctly identified their coffee. It was magical. He lectured them about different processing methods, once again showing what dried natural coffee looks like. They had an intense discussion, and it was wonderful to witness this progressive moment.

*Damien and his wife, Paz y Progreso, Mixteca*

After we cleaned up, a group of producers, including Reynaldo, the leader, led us uphill, where they said the farm was close by. On our way through the thick trees, we met Damion, whose wife had been at the meeting since he was working in the fields. He tells us he has 3 hectares at 1,400 meters above sea level, and is gradually transitioning to Marsellesa, 1.5 hectares are still not producing because the trees are too young. He plants banana, mango, and Cuajinicuil trees as shade for the coffee trees which help with the intense sun. But the trees also promote fungus growth, so it is difficult to manage. He joined AMSA, then UNECAFE, ten years ago, and is beginning to see the benefits of transitioning to Marsellesa.

*Eliseo Felix Bautista and his farm, Paz y Progreso, Mixteca*

The trek continues, I thought for not too much further, but no…we hike downhill for another thirty minutes in the bright sunlight. Various producers join the entourage, I stumble a couple of times on some dried leaves, and finally we make it. Eliseo Felix Bautista shows us his Marsellesa trees, and his farm called Ocotal. He owns 4.5 hectares, which are broken up into four lots. His smile is contagious as he talks about his trees, caressing the waxy green leaf. He has been growing coffee for 43 years. His family assists on the farm, and I gaze down at the steep hill, wondering how these producers can work this land without falling. I guess it is in their blood. So far, he has transitioned 95% of his land to Marsellesa, 5% is still Typica. The bird’s eye fungus is harming his trees, but production remains strong.

The trek back is completely uphill, all of us sweating, panting, and craving something cold to drink. We stop at a producer’s home, sip on cold beverages, and the others eat some strange cold sweet potato mixture in plastic bowls. We carry on, led by producer Adrian, who owns 1.5 hectares on the other side of the mountain. I am impressed by how much walking and hiking these Mixtecans do, they rarely look tired, they wear sandals, and sometimes walk for hours just to reach their farms. During the harvest, they then carry heavy loads of cherry with traditional baskets back home to process their coffee. I mean…that is seriously amazing.

Finally, we are back to the town center, soaked with sweat, eager for cold water and to rest our limbs. We bid everyone farewell and hopped into the car, back to Oaxaca City.

Oaxaca has struggled immensely with coffee production. Climate change has ravaged these lands, especially la roya. Government support fizzled in the late 80s with the dissolving of AMECAFE. Production dropped, and producers preferred to stick with organic methods, leaf litter for mulch, organic materials for fertilizer, and no chemicals for pests of fungi. With high production costs, and a decrease in production, it was a vicious cycle. Not only that, but the youths were not interested in coffee farming, fleeing their homes and heading to cities and the US to make more money to send home. What SMS, Neftali, and Hiro are doing is exceptional. Looking to the future for coffee production in Oaxaca, getting the people excited about coffee, renovation, and adaptation. And they are getting excited! I saw this firsthand, and I feel positive that the future will be bright for Oaxacan coffee, at least in Mixteca. Yet, if Hiro and Neftali are visiting other areas of Oaxaca, which they are, I am sure the same can be said for them.

Charging Through Chiapas

Oh Oaxaca…