Oh Oaxaca…

Hot hot hot…I must first state the temperature of this city because it was so memorable and unexpected. I loved Oaxaca, even though it was hot, filled with Ex Pats, and a bit expensive. One of my favorite places thus far in my travels, and I spent nearly two weeks here.

What do you think of when you hear Oaxaca? Cheese, mezcal, mole? Before I arrived, I really only thought the place was famous for food and some art, but my goodness…the city truly exceeded my expectations.

My first stop upon arrival was of course, for coffee. I carefully mapped out where I would be visiting the week before to ensure I was able to visit all the spots. Muss Cafe was an exquisite cafe, situated within an old stone building, that was also home to a beautiful boutique hotel, Casa Antonieta. I sipped on a cold brew in the hotel lobby as I worked away. Hunger struck me, so I ordered some excellent oatmeal and another coffee. It felt like heaven. I then wandered around the city, and discovered much more than I anticipated.

When I was leaving Muss, I saw the loveliest postcards, hand drawn, and of buildings throughout Oaxaca. The barista told me they were made by a local artist, and I could visit his gallery. Thus…my afternoon was mapped.

I headed to Once in Oaxaca, such a witty name, and was joyously greeted by the artist himself. He was a kind and bright Australian who fell in love with Oaxaca. I drooled over his art, made a couple of purchases, and he gave me his own map of the city with secret gems throughout the tangled streets marked. I met a woman who was opening a bar down the way called Sagrado Primitivo. I left feeling so full of valuable information!

Rain poured down as I huddled beneath an awning, and I quickly headed home to map out my evening. I wandered to the city later, had a fruity cocktail at Sagrado Primitivo, and had a long conversation with the host. Oaxaca was great thus far.

The following days were filled with plenty of walking, heat, coffee, and typing away! I went to Marito & Moglie for some cold brew, and wow (photos above). This place was absolutely exceptional. It was hidden on a quiet road, in a bright yellow building. As soon as you enter, you are greeted by happy staff and a small espresso machine. When you venture deeper into heaven, you see a simply decorated room with some wooden tables, a bench with cushions, and basically a place I hoped would be my home one day. I learn that the owners are a blend of Mexican/Italian, which was so evident in this decor. I enjoyed my cold brew and the environment. Watching people coming and going. I knew this would be my place…

An afternoon wander, then I decided on another coffee at Onno Lonchería, another hidden treasure on a quiet street. The walls were white with blue art, and there was a lush garden area. They also had great soap in the bathroom. I had an iced cardamom latte, that was carefully bottled with almond milk. Ah! Dream. I was so happy, reading, sipping on the smooth and spiced coffee.

*Levadura de Olla Restaurante tomato plate*

In the evening, I met some colleagues who work in Oaxaca at Levadura de Olla Restaurante for dinner. I was immensely shocked at the grandeur and beauty of this place. My friends mentioned they do not normally eat at places like this, so I felt truly spoiled. The plates/bowls were beautiful stone ceramic, the decor authentic and colorful, and incense filled the air. We had an assortment of dishes, and I practiced my Spanish. It was a lovely evening.

The rest of my week primarily included visits to Muss and Marito & Magolie, working, wandering, and indulging in some Oaxacan food. I went to the restaurant atop Muss, Amá Terraza, and oh my…fell in love. The rooftop was glorious, beautifully decorated, with a perfect view of the city. You could hear church bells toll as the sun was setting. I sipped on some natural orange wine, nibbled on olives, hummus, and guacamole. This was one of my favorite moments in Oaxaca. I loved this spot, the staff, the coffee, the food. So excellent.

I did a lovely tour of Monte Albán on the weekend, learning about the ancient civilizations of Oaxaca. Did so much wandering, tasting, drinking coffee, reading, thinking. I loved it. Even though I melted, it was worth it.

I ventured a bit out of the city to taste coffee at Terno, owned and managed by a young Oaxacan who yearns to teach people about the amazing coffee from his home.

And then he recommended I visit Sagrado Filemón, a shared roastery space he uses and helps other learn how to roast coffee.

So, the following day, I visit, and of course fall in love. Another beautiful building, with excellent coffee, and pastries, AND a rooftop. Could life get any better?

My heart was so full and warm (not just because of the heat) walking the streets of Oaxaca. Seeing the art, the buildings, the food, the locals, I loved it all. I even had the opportunity to partake in a cooking class, learning about all of the local food and how to cook it. I feel so lucky to have spent so much time there during my travels, and I hope to return.

My time in Oaxaca does not end here…join me in the next post to learn about the coffee producing regions of the State deep in the mountains…

Mountains of Mixteca

Venturing Through Veracruz and Puebla