Venturing Through Veracruz and Puebla

Zongozotla, Puebla

From Mexico City, I planed over to Veracruz, a State on the eastern side of Mexico. Veracruz is responsible for a significant portion of Mexico’s coffee production, so I was eager to visit and learn more about the producers and the land. I was traveling with an organization called Agroindustrias Unidas de México (AMSA), specifically their Sustainable Management Services (SMS) team to understand the struggles producers face and the actions being done to assist them to improve coffee production.

At the airport, I was met by René Avila Nieto, the leader of the SMS team in Mexico. The air was warm and moist, and we soon drove high into the mountains to visit a number of different areas.

H1 Hybrids, Dos Ríos Nursery, Veracruz

Our activities for the week included visiting a nursery in Dos Ríos where they are growing Marsellesa varietals and H1 hybrids to assist with the spread of roya. These varietals are tolerant to drought, high temperatures, and roya. With the development of these seedlings, the producers throughout Mexico have access to a coffee tree that can maintain production despite the changes in climate. I loved visiting this nursery and learning from the scientists involved with the future of coffee in Central America, essentially. The Marsellesa varietals grown here are transported throughout Mexico.

Churro, Coatepec, Veracruz

I then traveled to Coatepec, a small but beautiful city, where my companions and I feasted on churros in the Zócalo, or main square. The hotel here was…ah so gorgeous and peaceful.

SMS Team at Seminar, Huatusco

I also had the opportunity to attend an SMS seminar, whereby technicians from each state presented their successes and projections for the following year. I learned about the complexity of Mexican coffee, and all of the hard work being done by these technicians and the SMS team to improve coffee production, thus creating a future for these producers and their families. It was such a joy to spend time with these technicians! They were so young and full of life. We laughed at my horrible Spanish, and played foosball late into the night.

Cosme Castelan Rivera at his farm, Huatusco, Veracruz

We traveled throughout Huatusco and Ixhautlan del Café, visiting farms, mills, and warehouses. So many people are involved in this complex network of coffee. I cannot believe the number of exceptional people I met. Working diligently in mills, farms, offices, and technicians - all so kind and hard-working. Mexico is truly the country with the most hard-working people.

Totonacapan Cooperative, Zongozotla, Puebla

The finale of my time in the east of Mexico included a visit to Puebla to meet with members of the Totonacapan Cooperative in Zongozotla. This region was rich, mountainous, and filled with coffee. I spent my first evening with one of the SMS team members where we feasted on Tlacoyos and guacamole as rain poured and a Mariachi band strummed music.

Tlacoyos in Zongozotla, Puebla

The following morning, I met three women producers Jeneth Simon Lopez (42), Dolores Cano (37), and Jezebel Perez Lopez (37), who are a part of a women’s group within the cooperative. They are helping to give women more knowledge about coffee and empowering them to run farms. They had traditional dress on, which included beautiful, embroidered dresses, intricate belts, and a small basket for gathering coffee. These women were able to hike up their mountainous coffee farms in their delicate sandals as I struggled with my leather boots. I was in awe…I wished I could join their crew…

Jeneth Simon Lopez, Dolores Cano, and Jezebel Perez Lopez, Zongozotla, Puebla

Production of coffee has increased here thanks to the work of SMS, and the educational trainings guided by these women. Zongozotla was stunning! So peaceful, serene, and filled with exceptional people.

Jeneth’s Farm, Zongozotla, Puebla

Veracruz and Puebla taught me about the struggles within Mexico, but also introduced me to SMS, and the amazing team working to combat these challenges. The food…ah I loved it. I feel so grateful to have met all of the amazing people working to ensure there is a future for coffee in Mexico.

Esquite snack on the ride back to Mexico City